I prefer to paint in oils for most situations because of its longer workability. However, I also work in acrylics for some situations.
I usually paint and draw standing-up, and I encourage my students to do the same. It helps to keep you from getting too close to the canvas, as well as allows you to back up from your work for frequent distance viewing. I also use a mirror to check my work from a different perspective.
Easels are provided in class for up to seven students. The following materials are up to you to bring to class:
Oil and Acrylic Colors (or their color equivalents) listed below are necessary for limited-palette paintings in most lighting situations. They represent a warm and cool version of the primary colors plus some secondary colors and useful neutrals. Other colors can be bought in miniature tubes or later as needed. I can also provide squirts of paint if needed, at a charge of $2 per one inch squirt for oils only.
Titanium White (large tube)
Cadmium Yellow Pale or Light (cool)
Cadmium Yellow Medium (warm)
Cadmium Red Medium (warm)
Permanent Alizarin Crimson (cool and beautifully transparent!)
Ultramarine Blue (cool)
Cerulean Blue (warm)
Viridian Green (cool)
Sap Green (warm)
Palette and More
OILS: (I've listed these in the order of my preference, but I continue to use all three, depending on how and where I'm painting.)
A 12" X 16" glass palette fits well within a "Mastersons" palette holder which will protect the wet paint during transport. (You can buy the glass at your local hardware or home improvement store. I tape the edges of the glass backed to the edges of an equally-sized gray or neutral-colored matt board so I can better see the tints and shades of colors as I mix them. The mat board also strengthens the glass to prevent breakage.)
Wooden palettes also work well because they tend to be lighter, but you'll want to use the pre-finished ones, otherwise, the wood will absorb the oil from your paint. Coated disposable paper palette (available at art supply stores with or without a thumb hole), plastic wrap to cover your oil paints at the end of class (I recommend placing them in the freezer so that they last longer).
ACRYLICS : A flat plastic, wood, or coated paper palette with a 12" X 16" area works fine.
Solvent and, container for solvent.
OILS: Zero-odor Mineral Spirits (Gamsol has no odor at all) and Silicoil glass jar, rags and/or paper towels
ACRYLICS: water and a quart-sized plastic container.
OILS: a mixture of stand linseed oil, varnish, and turpentine for use with oils only), or you may purchase a medium from the art supply store.
ACRYLICS: a fine-misting spray bottle and acrylic gel medium
Medium sized diamond-head Palette Knife.
I prefer long-bristled filberts and flats of good quality, (cheap ones tend to shed hairs into your painting), for oils and acrylics. A selection of 4-5 Sizes should range from about 3/32 inch to about 1 inch (or more if you work large) If you work with thick paint application, you'll probably want stiffer bristles (which tend to be less expensive.) I recommend both.
A #0 round pointed round brush works well for finer details
Painting Ground (stretched canvas sizes 16" X 12" and larger for both oils and acrylics) and a hand mirror for checking your work.
I think of painting as an extension of drawing—only in color. Students who struggle with capturing the accurate representation of objects are encouraged to use traditional drawing media as much as possible. (I prefer charcoal of various softness as well as vine charcoal), graphite pencils, kneaded erasers, pencil sharpener, and acid free drawing paper.
As an intermediate student, I expect you to know what you want to paint. It's okay if you can't get started because you don't know how, but I need you to know what you want to do before I can help you. The best way I can help you is for you to show me references of your painting's subject matter. If you show up to class with a blank canvas, please be prepared to describe what you'd like to do.
Painting ideas on paper: photos that you take yourself, your own sketches, magazine pictures, or reproductions of masterful paintings
Still-life objects: If space permits, you may bring your own simple objects to paint in a quick still-life setup (which must be taken down at the end of class) or you may use my collection of still-life objects. You may take digital reference images of the still-life at the end of class.
Tote Container for Transport of Materials
Make it easy on yourself by keeping your supplies together. I have found that the use of inexpensive rolling travel bags work well for the transport of supplies.
Non-painters: any container for storage of pencils, erasers, brushes,
straight-edge, sharpener, etc.
Painters: a tackle box or a small rolling suitcase that holds drawing materials, paints,gesso, brushes, painting medium, brush cleaner, and other small tools is ideal.
Please visit me on Meetup for more information or call 678-643-3139.